Measure mold for volume.  [See "HOW MUCH TO USE".]
Cut soap cubes from block.
Place cubes in microwave-safe measuring cup.
Microwave for 15 to 20 seconds
Remove and stir with craft stick.
If still partially solid, microwave for another 15 to 20 seconds, placing cup on a paper plate.  (Repeat as needed until soap is completely melted.)
Remove and stir with craft stick.
Add fragrance and colorant.
Stir with craft stick and "engage patience".
Continue stirring gently (so air bubbles aren't as apt to develop) until color and fragrance are blended AND continue stirring (so a film won't form) until steam is no longer visible.  If you pour still-steaming, melted soap into the mold, chances are good that you will warp the mold.
With mold on a level pouring surface, pour soap into mold until full.
Mist with alcohol to remove air bubbles.  Several sprays may be needed.
Pour any leftovers into a cube compartment of a sturdy ice cube tray.
Leave soap mold on the pouring surface until a healthy film has formed (about 10 to 15 minutes, depending on room temperature.
Move mold to a level space in the freezer and set timer for 20 minutes.
Try peeling remnants from the measuring cup or rinse clean in hot water.  Peeled remnants can be put in the same ice cube compartment.
At timer alarm, check soap by gently pressing center for hardness.
If soap is totally firm and cool, remove mold from freezer.
Invert the mold close to and above a clean surface and press in the center to release the soap.  Successful release from a deep mold may take both time and practice.
[1]   BASIC MELT-AND-POUR (MAP) BAR (Opaque Soap Base)

TIME-SAVING TIP #1
Once you have measured a mold for volume, make a note of the amount of soap you need for that mold and you won't have to remember the volume or re-measure when you make another soap from the same mold.

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If soap does not readily release, set timer for 10 minutes and return mold to freezer.
At timer alarm, try unmolding again.
Tah Dah!  Homemade soap!
For a basic clear base bar, leave soap in mold on pouring surface to harden, about 45 minutes.  Do not freeze set as this will usually cloud clear soap.
Once unmolded, allow soap to air dry until dry to the touch.
After air-drying, wrap in clear plastic cling wrap or store in a zippered storage bag or use immediately.  Though many recommend drying on a baker's cooling rack, I'm not a baker and don't have a cooling rack.  I simply leave the soap in a secure location (i.e., out of the way) until dry.  Using this method, however, the soap may take a day or so to dry.  For more even drying, I flip the soap every hour or two.
PEELING REMNANTS IS A MATTER OF TIMING AND PRACTICE.
Label and make notes regarding your process so the soap can be re-created later.  Include information about what scent(s) was used and how much; what soap was used; and which color was used and how much.  I know this sounds a bit silly, but when I first began making soaps, I was elated when my brother-in-law, Todd, told me how much he enjoyed the soap I'd given him and wanted to get some more.  Uh-huh.  I had absolutely no clue which soap I'd given him or what scent or whether or not there had been additives, etc.  I was mortified!  This simple step, though it will take a minute or two, can save you that embarrassment. 
White Glycerin Soap Base
+ 8 drops red liquid colorant
+ 8 drops orange liquid colorant
+ Cherry fragrance oil
White Glycerin Soap Base
+ about 1/4 teaspoon Blue crayon gratings
+ Blueberry fragrance oil
White Glycerin Soap Base
+ about 3/16 teaspoon Inchworm crayon gratings
+ about 3/16 teaspoon Fern crayon gratings
+ Lime fragrance oil
Though relatively simple in appearance, even Basic Melt-And-Pour Bars offer the opportunity for uniqueness through colorant and fragrance selections.
Simple doesn't have to be boring.


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© 2011 NORMA W. THOMAS.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
Basic Techniques
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